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NATE Fraser-Johnston® encourages
professionalism through North American Technician
Excellence, Inc.(NATE). NATE is the leading
certification program for technicians in the heating,
ventilation, air-conditioning and refrigeration (HVAC/R)
industry, and is the only test supported by the entire
industry.

ENERGY STAR Earning the ENERGY
STAR® means products meet strict energy efficiency
guidelines set by the U.S. Environmental Protection
Agency and the Department of Energy. When compared to
standard models, ENERGY STAR® products are between 15
and 25% more efficient. This model meets ENERGY STAR®
requirements for energy efficiency.
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Fraser-Johnston
Just like your car, your home comfort system
needs routine maintenance to keep it running at its best. Without regular
servicing, heating and cooling systems waste energy and are more likely to
break down. But with the proper attention, they can keep you comfortable
year-round.
Below are some basic tips to keep your system running efficiently. However,
these tips are not designed to replace annual servicing by a qualified
Fraser-Johnston dealer.
Heating Equipment
Blowers
Thermostats
Humidifiers
Filters
Duct Cleaning
Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional
tune-up. Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner; it should be serviced every
other year.
- Step 1
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical
contacts, and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water)
systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes,
dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and
the gas meter or oil tank, as well as every part of the furnace or boiler
itself.
Step 2
Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that
it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Contractors use smoke
pencils to check for sufficient draft and also test the air for carbon
monoxide.
Step 3
Finally, it's time for the down and dirty task of cleaning the burner and
heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can impede smooth
operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the
right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas, or changing the fuel filter
in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an
inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils, and refrigerant
lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant
pressure should be checked. Low pressure indicates a leak; to locate it,
contractors feed tinted refrigerant into the loop and go over it with an
electronic detector.
Back to Top
Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system starts with the
blower. The axle should be lubricated, blades cleaned, and lower motor
checked to insure the unit isn't being overloaded. The fan belt should be
adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed. Every accessible
joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic or UL-approved duct
tapes. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated. On a
hot-water system, the expansion tank should be drained, the circulating pump
cleaned and lubricated, and air bled out of the radiators.
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While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as
mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send
faulty signals if they've been knocked out of level or have dirty switches.
To recalibrate an older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of
the mercury switch until it turns the system on and, using a room
thermometer, set it to the correct temperature. Modern electronic
thermostats, sealed at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely need
adjusting. However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where
the thermostat wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked, or a draft
could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.
Back to Top
A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention
add too much moisture to a house. A common mistake with humidifiers is
leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don't forget to pull the
plug, shut the water valve, and drain the unit. A unit with a water
reservoir should be drained and cleaned with white vinegar, a mix of one
part chlorine bleach to eight parts water, or muriatic acid. Mist-type
humidifiers also require regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.
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Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made
from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork
clean. Unfortunately, they don't improve indoor air quality. That takes a
media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower
cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material, media filters are at
least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other
particles. An upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the air of
everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses.
Compressed, media filters are usually no wider than six inches, but the
pleated material can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched out. This
increased area of filtration accounts for the filter's long life, which can
exceed two years. The only drawback to a media filter is its tight weave,
which can restrict a furnace's ability to blow air through the house. To
insure a steady, strong airflow through the house, choose a filter that
matches your blower's capacity.
Back to Top
A maze of heating and air-conditioning ducts runs inside the walls and
floors of 80 percent of American homes. As the supply ducts blow air into
the rooms, return ducts inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the
blower. Add moisture to this mixture and you've got a breeding ground for
allergy-inducing molds, mites, and bacteria. Many filters commonly used
today can't keep dust and debris from streaming into the air, and over time,
sizable accumulations can form — think dust bunnies, but bigger.
To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some supply and return
registers and take a look. If a new furnace is being installed, you should
probably invest in a duct cleaning at the same time, because chances are the
new blower will be more powerful than the old one and will stir up a lot of
dust.
Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner indoor air, longer
equipment life, and lower energy costs. Clean HVAC systems can also perform
more efficiently, which may decrease energy costs, and last longer, reducing
the need for costly replacement or repairs. Cleaning has little effect on
air quality, primarily because most indoor dust drifts in from the outdoors.
But it does get rid of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that
means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers.
Back To The Top
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